A dryer that tumbles but blows cold air almost always means a dead heating element. The good news is it is one of the cheaper dryer repairs. Here is what you will actually pay across the Bay Area in 2026, and how to tell whether the fix is worth it.
The cost breakdown
For an electric dryer, expect the total to land between $180 and $400 all in:
- The element: $30 to $120. Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, and KitchenAid elements usually run $30 to $60. Some Samsung and LG elements hit $80 to $120 because of how the heater assembly is built.
- Labor: $120 to $250, depending on how buried the element is. A rear-access dryer is a 30 to 45 minute job. A front-access model where the whole cabinet comes off takes longer.
- The $75 diagnostic: credited to the repair when you book, so it is not an extra line.
Gas dryers do not use an element. If your gas dryer runs cold, the culprit is usually the igniter, flame sensor, or gas valve coils, which is a different repair with its own range.
Why it failed, and what else to check
An element burns out when the resistance coil inside it breaks. Sometimes that is plain age. Often it is a symptom of restricted airflow. A clogged vent traps heat in the cabinet, and that heat cooks the element and the safety parts around it. So before we hand you a number, we check three things together:
- The element for a broken coil or a short to the chassis
- The thermal fuse, which trips and cuts heat when the dryer overheats
- The cycling and high-limit thermostats, which fail from the same heat stress
Replace only the element while a tripped fuse or a clogged vent is still in play, and the dryer fails again within weeks. We test the whole heat circuit so the repair holds. If the vent is the root cause, we tell you, so you can clear the line yourself before we put in any heat parts.
A quick self-check first
To confirm it is the element before you book, unplug the dryer and:
- Pull the back panel, or the front, depending on the model.
- Find the element housing, usually a long metal tube or coil.
- Look for a visibly broken or sagging coil. A clean break is a giveaway.
- If you own a multimeter, test the element terminals for continuity. No continuity means it is open and needs replacing.
If the coil looks intact but there is still no heat, the fault is upstream in the fuse or thermostat. For the full no-heat walkthrough across brands, see why your dryer isn’t heating.
When to replace the dryer instead
An element job is cheap enough that repair almost always wins. Skip it only when:
- The dryer is past 12 years old and you have already replaced a major part like the drum bearing or motor.
- The repair plus other needed parts would top half the cost of a new unit.
- It is the second major failure inside a year.
On the fence? Our repair or replace guide lays out the math.
How we price it
Bay Area Appliance Repair Service has serviced Bay Area laundry since 2021. We come out for $75, test the full heat circuit, look up the exact OEM part cost, and give you the price and an honest repair-or-replace call in writing before any repair starts. No surprise bills.
Call (925) 999-4095, email [email protected], or schedule a visit. The $75 diagnostic is credited to your repair. You can also start through our laundry repair page.
FAQ
How much does a dryer heating element replacement cost? Most jobs run $180 to $400 all in: $30 to $120 for the element, $120 to $250 for labor, with the $75 diagnostic credited when you book.
Is it worth replacing the element? Yes, in most cases. At $180 to $400 it beats a $700 to $1,400 new dryer, as long as the unit is under 10 years old and this is the first major failure.
Why do some elements cost more? Part price varies by brand. Whirlpool and Maytag elements are often $30 to $60. Some Samsung and LG elements run $80 to $120. Labor stays the same.