Washer and Dryer Repair · Bay Area

What breaks and what it costs

Laundry calls split into two buckets: the washer won’t drain or spin, or the dryer won’t heat. Both are usually a one-visit fix.

Washer won’t drain (5E, ND, or a puddle). Nine times out of ten it’s the drain pump or a coin stuck in the impeller, not a dead motor. We pull the pump, clear it, and swap it if the impeller is cracked. Figure $180 to $260.

Washer won’t spin or bangs on spin. Unbalanced-load code, a worn suspension rod, or a bad shock. On front-loaders past ten years it can be the drum bearing, and that’s the one repair where we’ll sit down and talk replacement with you.

Dryer runs but won’t heat. Vented electric dryers: heating element or the thermal fuse, and a blocked vent is often what killed the fuse. Element and fuse together run about $150 to $250 with labor, and we check the vent while we’re there.

Dryer squeals or rumbles. Drum rollers, idler pulley, and the belt. We do all three together, because doing one and leaving the others is a callback in six months.

Every job opens with the $75 diagnostic, credited to the repair. We read the code, test the part it points at with a meter, and give you the price in writing before we order anything. Clearing a code without fixing the cause just brings it back next cycle.

Brands we see most

Samsung. WV dual-flex and FlexWash stackables: upper-unit drain pump cracks from coins and clips. Top-loaders throw self-diagnostic codes that scare people over simple faults. Samsung page.

LG. Direct-drive washers throw an LE motor fault that’s almost always the rotor-position sensor, a five-minute part once the back’s off. Don’t let anyone sell you a whole motor for it.

Whirlpool and Maytag. The volume of Bay Area laundry. Cabrio and Bravos top-loaders: lid-lock switch and the shift actuator. Tough machines, cheap parts, almost always worth repairing.

GE. Front-load door boots and drain pumps, vented-dryer drum bearings at the eight-to-ten year mark.

Bosch. Condensing dryers that won’t heat: element or the high-limit thermostat. We meter both before ordering. Element about $90 in parts, thermostat about $35.

We also handle Frigidaire, Kenmore, Electrolux, and Amana laundry on the same faults.

Repair or replace

Most laundry repairs win on the math. A pump, a belt, a heating element, a lid switch: those are a couple hundred dollars against six-hundred-plus for a new machine that isn’t any better built. The line moves when a front-load washer past ten years needs a drum bearing and a spider, or when a stacked unit needs the motor and the control board at once. Then we lay out both numbers and let you decide. We’ll tell you honestly when a machine isn’t worth it.