Cooking Appliance Repair · Bay Area

What breaks and what it costs

Most cooking-appliance calls are one of a handful of failures, and none of them are exotic.

An electric oven that won’t heat is almost always a burned-out bake element. You can usually see the break or the blister in the coil. Element plus labor runs about $150 to $250. If the oven heats but the temperature is off, or it throws an F1, F2, or F3 code, that’s the oven temperature sensor drifting out of spec. Cheaper part, quick swap.

A gas burner that clicks but won’t light is usually a worn spark igniter or a burner cap that’s crusted over or sitting crooked. Sometimes it’s just a cleaning. A gas oven that glows but never gets hot is the glow-bar igniter: it still lights up, but once it weakens it can’t pull enough current to open the gas valve, so the oven stays cold.

Induction cooktops that flash an error or drop an element are usually overheating, and nine times out of ten that’s a blocked cooling-fan vent under the cooktop, not a dead board. Clear the vent, confirm the airflow, done.

The expensive ones are control boards and touch panels. On a lot of ranges a self-clean cycle runs the oven hot enough to blow a thermal fuse or cook the control board, which is why we tell people to skip self-clean and wipe the oven out by hand. Repairs on cooking appliances generally start around $250 plus parts.

A Gas Oven Burner and Igniter, On Camera

Brands we see most

GE and GE Profile. Bake elements, oven sensors, and the control boards that die after a self-clean cycle. Common parts, usually worth fixing.

Samsung. Slide-in ranges with touch controls. The control panel and the cooktop relay board are the frequent flyers, and neither is cheap relative to the range.

LG. Induction and electric ranges, mostly sensor and board faults. Parts are gettable and the machines are generally worth repairing.

Whirlpool, KitchenAid, and Maytag. Same family. Bake elements, igniters on the gas models, and oven sensors. Straightforward, and we carry the common parts on the truck.

Frigidaire and Electrolux. Also one family. Igniters and oven sensors on gas, elements on electric.

Bosch. Wall ovens and induction cooktops, well built but costly to fix. The hidden European bake element and the induction power module are the usual jobs.

We also service the pro and luxury lines: Thermador, Z-Line, and GE Monogram ranges, and we’re Manufacturer-Authorized by Z-Line. The deep pro-range and built-in work is really the wheelhouse of our sister site, adrium.

Repair or replace

Straight math. A basic electric range or a builder-grade gas range isn’t worth a big repair. Once you’re into a control board plus labor on a $600 range, you’re spending most of the cost of a new one. But a bake element, an igniter, or an oven sensor on almost any range is worth fixing.

Slide-ins and higher-end ranges are a different call. There you’re paying $1,500 and up to replace, so a $400 board repair usually makes sense.

The $75 diagnostic tells us which one you’ve got. It’s credited toward the repair, and once we’ve found the fault we give you a written repair-or-replace call and a price before we do the work. We won’t talk you into a repair that costs more than the machine is worth.